Toyota Corolla Radiator R&R and critical details people forget

Remember, you can't just pour the coolant in and expect to be good to go. You also need to bleed the air out of the system. I didn't show that in this video, but I promise it's the same as when I recently got in and out of my Nissan Frontier's coolant system. I show the technique of bleeding the air bubbles out of the coolant during my changing of the belts. I had needed to change the belts for a while, but when I spotted a light coolant leak out of the thermostat housing, that's when I finally got around to taking care of it all at once!

Link to belts and coolant bleeding

I'll also show what transmission fluids belong in these cars. Be sure to watch until the end to catch it! While I was at it, I also changed the valve cover gasket. I really didn't show much on how to do it, but it's an incredibly easy job, on this car, you only need the gasket, with no sealant, and you should tighten it on to about 20 ft/lbs. Forgive me for not looking that up, but most valve cover gaskets are like 22 ft/lbs. Be sure to follow a nice x pattern starting from the center and working your way out. If you need to see the diagram for the bolts, these often come with the gasket, and if they don't, it's often available as a printout from your local store who sales you the gasket. I'm sure I'll show it on my Chevy Prizm in the future.

From 1998-2002 it was the 8th generation of Toyota Corolla's, and this video will also work for Chevy Prizm owners as these are the only years they were "Chevy's" instead before the Chevy side was discontinued. Prior to this it was the Geo Prizm. My brother has one. Great car. It's one of the reasons I bought a little newer one.

I allude to a few other jobs in this video. I didn't record a transmission fluid change, I just implied it, but you do need to add transmission fluid when you change a radiator, unless of course the transmission was a bit over full. I dropped the transmission pan, changed the filter, without recording, but these other jobs, I recorded and I'll leave the link to them below.

Spark plug balance theory:

Which, I actually called, "BalancingSpark with Spark Plug Gap and an extra secret! Shhh!"

VVT-i Explained (awesome video link)

The transmission fluid, which you should add to these vehicles is Dexron IV or Dexron VI. I've studied some about the differences, and I think that if they had Dextron VI back in the day, they would have never used Dexron IV. Dextron VI seems superior and is backwards compatible. It's deservedly a bit more expensive.

By AutoBravado

Due to factors beyond the control of DE Nichols/AutoBravado it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. DE Nichols/AutoBravado assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. DE Nichols/AutoBravado recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of DE Nichols/AutoBravado, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not DE Nichols/AutoBravado.

Understanding Oil Viscosity and Weather

I've seen this question a lot? What oil should I use?

Easy answer? Use the oil the engineer recommended.

But if you want a harder answer behind the concepts of viscosity and motor oil, then you have some studying to do.

Should I go with a 0w-20?

I don't think that's wise if the engine was designed for 30 weight once it's warmed up. You can get a tiny percent better miles per gallon ignoring the engineering that went into an engine with a thinner weight, but the catch is, this wears an engine down faster. Engine wear contributes to permanent reductions in miles per gallon. So, for example taxi's, having some of the hardest use for their miles? Thinner oil is not a good way to be saving money. Sure, if you didn't care about the next guy or gal when you're done with a car, you could go thinner because it'll save you money, but only a tiny bit, because you can pass the more used engine to the next guy - this assumes you buy new...furthermore, while under warranty, if they discovered your thinner use of oils, then you could lose your warranty. In the case of a heavily used engine like a taxi, even at the number of miles that isn't a big deal for a normal consumer, you'll have already achieved a great deal more wear.

Now, if the engine was designed for that second number to be thinner like the 20 in 5w-20 or 5w-30, then there is no issue, most likely. Some companies went to the slightly thinner oils to get better miles per gallon numbers, not because there was a matching redesign of the engine. Again, bad idea to go thinner if the engine wasn't legitimately redesigned, versus it just being an “environmental decision”.

You see, oil takes more punishment to keep metal parts off each other when it's thicker. You can't replace that protection...but some new valve trains do require it or the THICKER oil of 30, once heated up, is actually damaging those components.

Using a thicker oil is far more quickly damaging.

Unlike the subject above, I have more research to do about the viscosity that's indicated with the w, as in winter. So a 5w-20 and a 5w-30 on a cold engine actually behaves the same. I am referring to an engine that's not warmed up, not just one that's freezing cold.

The portion that I need to do more research in, is if going with a lower w or winter weight for extreme cold...is it only protecting better at startup because it can flow? Is it causing more damage as the oil heats up because vehicles that are in the middle of warming up don't have the right viscosity? Whether it's harmful after initial startup but fine after a complete warm up or not, then the gain first thing in the morning would only be balanced as a help to drivers who keep their engine warmed up for longer – if however going thinner on the w or winter side of the house, has the oil behaving well into a warm up, the it'll greatly benefit those who are frequently short tripping in their car, just like me.

- by AutoBravado

On a related subject, here's an oil additive by Lucas. It's called Lucas Pure Synthetic Oil Stabilizer:

Many of these questions that came up, came up on this video, which better illustrates the colds effect on different engine oils. So take a look at a fellow YouTuber's video called "Cold Engine Noise = OIL WEIGHT".